lternative culture is becoming more and more accepted – and that’s a good thing for anyone who feels stifled sticking to mainstream cultural norms. Tattoos won’t prevent you from landing a good job, and nobody cares if you consider yourself a “polyjamorous” music listener. Many people know the big city origins of punk in the 70s or even incorporate some corporate goth fashion into their wardrobe. Exploring different subgenres of alt music, lifestyle, and fashion is more accessible than ever before.
But today we’re taking a trip around the world to check out the thriving Japanese goth scene. If you’ve ever wondered when your favorite metalcore vocalist learned kanji or why the Gengar kaiju t-shirt is all over the Tik Tok shop, we’ve got you. Japanese gothic history is very different from the west’s, but it’s a huge force in the modern alternative scene all over the world.
That’s why today we’re digging into a variety of topics related to Japanese goth, including:
- Japanese ghost stories and gothic literature
- Tattoos in Japanese culture
- The evolution of Japanese street style
- Horror manga mastermind Junji Ito
- Collabs between eastern and western musicians
So let’s go!
First: What Do We Mean When We Talk About Goth?
The term “Gothic” can refer to several different things across centuries of history. Here’s a very brief crash course:
- Gothic art + architecture, which was popular in Europe in the middle ages c.12th-16th centuries. Think big arches, flying buttresses, and huge stained glass windows like Notre Dame.
- Gothic literature, which became popular in 18th-century Europe. It’s considered a “spiritual and aesthetic revival” of gothic architecture, just in a new medium. Gothic lit has a lot of romanticism, supernatural elements, and intense emotions. Think Dracula, Frankenstein, and Wuthering Heights.
- Gothic subculture, which really emerged in the post-punk music scene in the late 1970s and early 80s. This is goth as we think of it today, with distinct fashion (bold makeup, black clothes), music (darkwave, goth rock, etc), and an interest in the macabre (smoking clove cigarettes in the graveyard at midnight, anyone?)
An important thing to note about all of the types of “goth” above is that they’re defined by the western cultural standards of Europe and America. Japan has its own unique history with elements like dramatic makeup, ghost stories, and religious architecture.
So if it comes from its own unique sources, why are we calling modern Japanese alternative culture “goth” instead of something else?
Japanese Cultural Exports to the West
Japan became an open country in 1853, but businesses in Japan weren’t necessarily eager to begin trade with the west. Until the end of World War II, the Japanese government mostly invested in exporting industrial goods like cars and electronics. They didn’t do much to encourage the export and exchange of Japanese cultural industries and products. It wasn’t seen to be a particularly valuable commodity, so they spent their efforts on things that were.
During World War II, Japan’s relations with other countries became strained for obvious reasons, slowing down their ability to export anything. However they did see firsthand how powerful of a tool and commodity culture could be during this period.
By the 1970s and 80s, Japan had somewhat improved its relationship with other Asian nations, creating a climate that allowed Japan to share cultural exports with its neighbors and beyond. Soon Japanese culture and entertainment – like Godzilla, Pokemon, Dragon Ball, and Sailor Moon – were growing in popularity all over the world.
Keep in mind, this was also the era in which the gothic subculture was emerging in Europe and America. And as Japan and the west shared their art, fashion, literature, and animation more freely, we started using the same terms to describe similar elements in both cultures as well. Hence, Japanese goth as we know it today came to be.
But the history of the cultural elements that we now consider to be relevant to Japanese goth or J-Goth go back way further than the 1970s. Let’s take a look at a few of them next.
Shinto Religion
Since European goth really got its start in the art and architecture of Medieval churches, it makes sense to take a look at how Japan’s dominant religion affects their own goth culture. Unlike the Christianity of this time period, Shinto isn’t so much about fire and brimstone, and there was no iconic gothic stained glass in Japan until it was gifted to them by the French in 1865.
So what elements of Shinto fit with what we think of as goth?
Shinto is an animistic religion, which believes that spirits called kami (神) inhabit everything from the wind and rain to fertility, wisdom, poetry, trees, and family ancestors who have passed on. Many Shinto traditions include rituals to ward off bad kami and honor good kami by visiting shrines.
These ideas inform a lot of Japanese culture, particularly considering that Shinto was the official religion of the Japanese state and Shinto priests and priestesses were state officials from 1868 until 1912. So it's not exactly "alternative" or counter culture -- it's the dominant belief system.
Shinto beliefs and ideas are still prevalent in popular Japanese books and films, like Hiayao Miyazaki’s Spirited Away, and discussions of spirits and ghosts are often brought up in response to current events, like the Fukushima tsunami in 2011.
Obviously, there is a great deal of depth to Shinto spiritual beliefs relating to ghosts that we can’t cover in a few paragraphs here… but we can’t help but notice that a culture that is so aware of spirits in daily life feels like something that would resonate with goths of any tradition.
Japanese Gothic Literature
Gothic elements in Japanese literature can be traced all the way back to the Edo period (1603-1868). During this time, stories with a lot of the elements we now consider to be part of the gothic tradition, like ghosts and supernatural forces as representations for greater cultural or spiritual anxieties, became popular.
These forms were known as “kaidan” and “hyaku monogatari,” and they were heavily influenced by Japanese folk beliefs and Chinese horror stories.
Japanese writers have continued to build on this tradition over the centuries. Modern Japanese gothic literature includes elements like dark psychological themes, unsolved crimes, and familiy secrets. They’re atmospheric and mysterious, and gothic stories have made their way into novels, manga, and screen adaptations as well.
A few major gothic Japanese writers to be aware of:
- Izumi Kyoka (A Song By Lantern-light, The Holy Man of Mount Kōya)
- Koji Suzuki (The Ring, Dark Waters)
- Ueda Akinari (Tales of Moonlight and Rain)
- Junji Ito (Uzumaki, Enigma of Amigara Fault)
It’s only a small leap from page to screen. Some of the Japanese films that are best known in the west fall into this tradition. For example, Godzilla relates back to the idea of animism and is a clear representation of Japanese fears about nuclear weapons in the wake of World War II. There are even popular gothic anime, including well-known titles like Black Butler, Tokyo Ghoul, and Death Note.
If you’re interested in Japanese culture, some of these names probably sound familiar! It just goes to show how interest in Japanese goth has gone global over the last couple of decades.
Harajuku
These same gothic themes of darkness and drama have crystallized in Japanese fashion, too. Harajuku is a district in Tokyo known for its fashion and youth culture, making it a great place to catch a glimpse of gothic elements in Japanese street style and the subcategory of lolita fashion known as gothic lolita.
Showing Off Alternative Looks with Street Fashion
Thanks to the Harajuku district, Japanese street fashion has global influence. People look to trendy cities like Milan, New York, and yes, Tokyo to see what’s in style, and the best way to see what looks are really trending in Japan is to look at street style.
Street Style Inspo
The videos are hard to miss on social media – glamorous slow-mo shots of everyday people walking the streets like they’re runways. If you’re already familiar with the trend, you’ve probably seen popular streetwear styles like lolita, Harajuku punk, decora kei, techwear, and industrial fashion. There are so many different ways to show off your alternative style in Japanese goth culture, and street fashion is where they’re all on display.
J-Metal Fashion Icons
By now, you’re probably seeing how all of these different facets of Japanese goth – from literature to fashion and beyond – intersect. And Japanese metal (aka J-Metal) sensation Babymetal is just another example of different elements coming together.
In particular, Babymetal is the intersection between alternative music and J-goth fashion. It’s metal, but cuter – more kawaii. They’re alternative fashion icons, sporting lolita-inspired tulle dresses and gothic silver chains in one outfit.
Oli Sykes x Junji Ito
We’ve also seen lots of collaborations between eastern and western style icons and designers. Keeping with the theme of alternative music, let’s talk about the collaboration between metalcore vocalist Oli Sykes of Bring Me the Horizon and Junji Ito, iconic horror manga writer.
Over the years, BMTH has run the gamut of alternative music from deathcore to metal to hyperpop and back again. They even collaborated with metal idol band Babymetal on the hit song Kingslayer for their 2020 album Post Human: Survival Horror.
But since 2008, Sykes has also been working in fashion with his clothing label, DROP DEAD, which according to their website is the “iconic dark fashion brand for discerning goths.”
In 2024, Sykes announced the collab with Ito, saying:
“Junji Ito is a genius. His style is only topped by his substance. I love his work and how he manages to write such fun and engrossing stories while holding up a dark mirror to society, politics and religion. He’s clearly been a big influence on my brand for many years now so to be creating an official collaboration is a huge honour for me.”
Notes on Tattoos in Japan
For westerners, body modifications like tattoos and piercings are a huge part of the alternative look. But it’s no secret that Japan has a complicated history with tattoos since they are historically associated with the yakuza, Japanese organized crime.
The exact reason for the association between tattoos and crime depends on your source, with some saying it’s because criminals sometimes get tattoos to show loyalty to their criminal organization. As far back as the Edo period, tattoos were used as a punishment for criminals, so the roots go back for generations. Tattoos are also against Shinto teachings.
Many older people in Japan still don’t approve of tattoos, and people with tattoos have to abide by certain legal and social restrictions in Japan. For example, people with tattoos aren’t allowed to use the same onsens, pools, beaches, and tattoos as non-tattooed people.
But all of that being said, attitudes about tattoos are changing in Japan, and more younger people are using them as a form of self expression.
Japanese Goth Stores + Brands You Should Know
If you’re planning a trip to Japan and want to get the J-goth look from authentic Japanese brands, you have tons of options. If you spend some time walking around the Harajuku/Omotesando area, you’re sure to find a variety of options for both genders.
There are some pretty detailed Reddit threads covering where to buy techwear and other alt trends in Harajuku and beyond, but here are a few highlights:
- Laforet Harajuku mall (Shops Acro Tokyo, Qooza)
- Closet Child (Harajuku + Shinjuku)
- Yellow House (Harajuku)
- Marui Annex (Shinjuku)
- DOG (Harajuku)
- Alice on Wednesday (Shibuya)
- Fuudobrain (Suginami City)
- Killers (Shimokitazawa)
Get the Look: What’s Trending in J-Goth Fashion
If you don’t have the cash to grab a flight to Tokyo and you’re sick of trying to figure out international shipping, you can also get the J-Goth look with pieces from western brands, as well. Here are some trends to keep an eye out for!
Spooky Anime Shirts
Anime, manga, and Nintendo characters are popular additions to pretty much any outfit in Japanese style.
Gengar is a popular ghost-type Pokemon, so it’s no wonder he’s been showing up all over t-shirts and hoodies this season.
👻 Can’t get enough of the ghost types? Here are a few of our other favorite Pokemon pieces that work with a J-Goth outfit:
- Gengar Beanie
- Pokemon Mimikyu Spooky Forest Long Sleeve
- Pokemon Gengar Manga Tee
- Gastly Evolutions Three Pocket Backpack
Or sport one of the main characters from the spooky manga/anime Death Note on this cozy oversized sweater.
📓 Get the look with more Death Note-inspired options:
- Ryuk Crew Neck Pullover
- Light and Ryuk T-Shirt
- Death Note Eye Blocks Shirt
- Death Note 5 Panel Faces Pullover Hoodie
Honestly I’m kind of not sure whether to laugh or shudder over this Junji Ito-inspired reimagining of the woman yelling at cat meme.
Okay not a shirt, but how could we resist including Black Butler?
J-Goth Accessories
Sweet sakura blossom earrings with a goth twist!
Or add a little goth flair to any outfit with this unisex pants keychain. Attach it to your belt loops for a classic look, but it would also work on a purse!
These Tomie-inspired nails are incredible. They really capture the horror of Junji Ito’s illustration style, all in the miniature form of press-on nails!
Gothic Lolita + Cute Victorian Gothic
Most of the pieces in Micheline Pitt’s La Femme en Noir collection are very Western, inspired by the gilded glamor and sexy silhouettes of the silver screen starlets in Old Hollywood. But explore the catalog pages of art deco ruched gowns and vampy wiggle dresses, and you’ll also find pinafores, bustle dresses, and babydoll dresses any gothic lolita would love to have in her closet.
Here are a few more of our top picks from La Femme en Noir!
- Dark Romance Satin Bustle Dress in Black
- Cottage Corset Pinafore in Black (pictured over Solstice Babydoll)
- Solstice Babydoll Dress in Black Chiffon
PS - Don’t break the bank! Save $10 on your first order from La Femme en Noir when you use this link :)
You can also find lots of gothic lolita dresses on Amazon for well under $100:
- Elegant Suspender Short Sleeve Party Dress
- Long Sleeve Ruffle Dress with Bows
- Classic Black Layered Lace Up Goth Lolita Dress
To get the classic bell shape that’s so popular in lolita fashion, you’ll definitely need to pick up a petticoat. It adds some extra volume underneath a dress or skirt to give you the Victorian-inspired shape you’re looking for!
Lace is a must-have texture for any gothic Lolita. This set comes with a parasol, fingerless gloves, and a storage pouch to complete any outfit.
Available in several different styles, these chunky platform shoes add a romantic touch to any outfit.
Techwear
Techwear clothing is industrial, futuristic, and sleek. If it looks like something any character in The Matrix would wear, it’s probably a safe bet. These women’s cargo joggers are perfect for outrunning the apocalypse.
And don’t forget options for the gents. Although, most of this clothing is pretty utilitarian, so it’s more or less a unisex silhouette.
Lots of techwear is baggy for comfort and ease of movement. As a general rule, either pair a baggy top with bottoms that are fitted or a close fitting top with baggy pants.
This windbreaker is heavyweight and oversized, giving you a cool streetwear tech look.
Straps and buckles also read as techwear, depending on how you accessorize. With a pair of combat boots and some chunky silver jewelry, a dress like this looks great!
For a slightly more wearable option, try this asymmetrical pleated skirt. The buckle gives it some style points, and the built in shorts mean you can move comfortably all day or night long.
General Japanese Goth, Punk, and Alternative Clothes
The Stalin were a Japanese Punk band formed in 1980, and you wouldn’t have alternative fashion in Japan the way it exists today without their shaggy hair, shredded jeans, and long dusters.
It’s not exactly office appropriate, but this cropped button down shirt plays with the idea of corporate clothing, making it alternative to fit your personality outside of the office.
Every goth needs a gray and black striped shirt, right?
Lots of women’s goth fashions involve pleated skirts or short dresses. Leg warmers like these, or even more stylized ones that feature characters or designs, are another accessory you can use to show off your style. Plus, they help keep you warm!
It’s giving Edgar Allan Poe, but Japanese.
This shirt doesn’t scream GOTH! but it’s a nice staple to have in your closet. The lacy details give it a goth-ish feel without being too over the top.
Pastel Goth
Perfect for someone looking for a more subtle look.
Pastel goth uses lots of the same silhouettes as these other alternative looks, but in fun colors like pinks, pale blues, and purples.
That’s it for our guide to Japanese goth!
Japanese goth is a huge category, but we hope this guide has given you some history and context about the modern alternative scene in Japan. Hope to see you rocking some techwear next time we meet. Until then! 🫰
Main image courtesy of La Carmina.
